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WWU 3D Printer Assembly: Cabling and Final Assembly


4 M3X8 Button Head Screws

2 M3X10 Button Head Screws

2 M3X12 Button Head Screws

4 M3X16 Button Head Screws

6 M3 Nuts


5 Stepper Motor Cables

Spiral Cable Wrap

2 Ferrules

2 Fan Headers

Extra wire

2 Pin Wire Connector

15-20 Zipties

LCD Cover

2 LCD Spacers

Arduino Spacer

Base Plate

Cabling 2.jpegCabling 3.jpegCabling 4.jpegCabling 5.jpegCabling 6.jpeg Take two limit switch cables, and plug them into the two limit switches on the X axis assembly.
Cabling 7.jpegCabling 8.jpeg If you haven’t already, plug the extruder motor cable into the extruder.
Cabling 9.jpegCabling 10.jpeg Plug in the X motor.
Cabling 11.jpegCabling 12.jpegCabling 13.jpegCabling 14.jpegCabling 15.jpegCabling 16.jpeg Also plug in the Z and Y motors.
Cabling 17.pngCabling 18.pngCabling 19.jpegCabling 20.jpegCabling 21.png Take the motor wires and limit switch wires and plug them in to the correct terminals on the RAMPS using the diagram to the left. This is important, because if you don’t do it now you’ll need to keep track of which wire is which through the subsequent steps.
Cabling 22.jpegCabling 23.jpegCabling 24.jpeg Take the X axis assembly and place it on top of the rods as shown. Make sure the Z motor rods are almost in the thread but the X axis can still be lifted off of them.
Cabling 25.jpegCabling 26.jpeg Plug the printer in and navigate the printer menu to Prepare -> Auto Home. Allow the X axis to go down a fairly good distance before unplugging the printer. If the X axis begins to twist or anything unplug immediately and manually twist it off to try again.
Cabling 27.jpegCabling 28.jpegCabling 29.jpegCabling 30.jpeg Gather the extruder’s heater and fan wires, and ziptie them to the extruder in a way that they will not get in the way of the fan or anything else.
Cabling 31.jpegCabling 32.jpeg A little further up, ziptie the extruder motor cable to the wires you just ziptied to the extruder.
Cabling 33.jpegCabling 34.jpegCabling 35.jpeg Take the spiral cable wrap and wrap it around the wires starting from where all the cables were ziptied together. Ziptie it there so that it doesn’t slip. 40.jpeg Your extruder fan may have too short of a cord. If that is the case, then get two wires and strip off their ends. Twist them with the cordless drill, and then push them into the connector shown in the picture. Once they are in alright, then bend them down and pull so they will be secure. Now you can use the fan header to connect that wire to your fan wire, strip the other end of the wires you used, and insert them into two ferrules and crimp them.
Cabling 43.jpegCabling 44.jpeg Slide the extruder all the way to the side that doesn’t have the limit switch, and then continue using the spiral cable wrap to wrap the wires. Take the long set of wrapped wires and place them on the left Z carrier as shown. Make sure there is enough cable before that point, or the extruder won’t have full range of motion when you print.
Cabling 45.jpegCabling 46.jpegCabling 47.jpegCabling 48.jpegCabling 49.jpeg Grab the limit switch cables and pull them tight around the carrier as shown, and ziptie them as shown. Then take the two wires, now together because of the ziptie, and bring them to the other size of the Z carrier as shown. Also grab the X stepper motor cable and bring it to the same spot.
Cabling 50.jpeg Ziptie all of the wires to the Z carrier using the hole on the side of the Z carrier. Make sure the wires from the extruder are wrapped past that point.
Cabling 51.jpegCabling 52.jpegCabling 53.jpeg Once it is ziptied, unwrap the cables on the other side of the ziptie, and rewrap them around all of the wires. After a couple inches, cut the spiral wrap and ziptie it off.
Cabling 54.jpeg Next, plug in the printer and navigate through Prepare -> Move Axis -> 1mm -> Z axis, and then turn it incrementally until the X axis is high enough so the 8mm rods are flush with the tops of the carriers. Then unplug the printer.
Cabling 55.jpeg Ziptie the wires after the first ziptie every 2 inches down the cable until the cable reaches the bottom of the printer.
Cabling 56.jpegCabling 57.jpeg Tuck the cable into the indentation on the side of the chassis as shown, and leave it there until a later step.
Cabling 58.jpeg Grab the LCD cover, and the LCD, connected to the other electronics. Also gather the two LCD spacers, four M3 nuts, and four M3X14 or M3X16 screws, either will work.
Cabling 59.jpegCabling 60.jpegCabling 61.jpeg Push the 4 M3 nuts into the nut-holding LCD spacer.
Cabling 62.jpegCabling 63.jpegCabling 64.jpeg Slide the nut-holding spacer between the two circuit boards of the LCD as shown.
Cabling 65.jpeg Place the other LCD spacer on top of the LCD as shown.
Cabling 66.jpegCabling 67.jpegCabling 68.jpegCabling 69.jpeg Use the M3 screws you got before to screw the LCD into the LCD cover. Yours will be for an alan wrench, mine are for a normal screwdriver. Put the dial back on when you finish.
Cabling 70.jpegCabling 71.jpegCabling 72.jpegCabling 73.jpeg Check which cords from the LCD go into which slots on the RAMPS board, and make note of them. Then unplug them, run the cords through the hole in the LCD as shown, and then plug them back into the RAMPS board from the other side.
Cabling 74.jpegCabling 75.jpeg Now, place the LCD cover as shown, making sure those wires you put in the indentation before stay there.
Cabling 76.jpegCabling 77.jpegCabling 78.jpegCabling 79.jpeg Get 2 M3X10 button head screws, and screw in the LCD cover using the holes as shown.
Cabling 80.jpegCabling 81.jpeg Grab the bottom plate now, and place the Arduino space on it as shown to line up with the holes.
Cabling 82.jpeg Place your Arduino and RAMPS board on top of that to line up with the spacer.
Cabling 83.jpegCabling 84.jpegCabling 85.jpegCabling 86.jpeg Use two M3X12 button head screws with two M3 nuts to fasten the board and spacer to the bottom plate.
Cabling 87.jpegCabling 88.jpegCabling 89.jpegCabling 90.jpegCabling 91.jpegCabling 92.jpegCabling 93.jpeg Next, remove the wires from the green power supply plug, make sure they go through the hole in the chassis as shown from the outside, and then fasten them to the RAMPS board plug again. Make sure, once again, that the white cord is connected to V+ or any positive number and that the non white stripped cord is connected to V- or ground.
Cabling 94.jpegCabling 95.jpegCabling 96.jpegCabling 97.jpegCabling 98.jpeg Take the red extruder wires, pull off the tips of it, and then fasten them into the RAMPS board by the blue terminals. Make sure they are fastened in the furthest 2 terminals to the D10 side.
Cabling 99.jpegCabling 100.jpeg Screw the chassis fan to the bottom plate with four M3X16 screws and four M3 nuts.
Cabling 101.png Grab your two fan headers. If you used one earlier, than you only need one and also the extruder fan extension cords.
Cabling 102.png Bend your headers in this way, and then put them into the two terminals next to the terminals used for the extruder heater wires. If you used the second header earlier, than plug the stripped wires from the extruder fan extensions into the terminals as well. Then screw them tight, as you did with the extruder heater wires.
Cabling 104.pngCabling 105.pngCabling 106.png

Plug the chassis fan into one of the headers. If you didn’t use the other header earlier, than plug the extruder fan into the second header.

Plug in your printer. If either of the fans don’t run, unplug your printer, flip that fan’s wires, and then plug the printer in again.

Cabling 107.pngCabling 108.png Also plug in the extruder temperature sensor. It is the white wire, and it goes to T0.
Cabling 109.jpeg Also plug in the USB extension cable to the board.
Cabling 110.jpegCabling 111.jpegCabling 112.jpeg Place your fiberglass print bed on the bed plate. You may secure it on the bed plate using binder clips, or you could just tape it on. If it is warping, try drilling holes in it where the screws are, in case they are pushing up and warping the bed.
Cabling 113.jpegCabling 114.jpeg

Verify everything works correctly. You may even want to try a print or two to make sure.

If you are going to do a print, cover the bed in tape, and then spray it lightly with hair spray. Once the hair spray dries, try printing.

Cabling 115.jpeg Now organize the wires as best you can and fit them all in the chassis, and then put the bottom plate on the chassis. Make sure no wires stick out, and that none of them are above the chassis fan.
Cabling 116.jpegCabling 117.jpegCabling 118.jpeg Screw the bottom plate to the chassis using four M3X8 screws.
Cabling 119.jpegCabling 120.jpeg Congratulations! You have a fully functional 3D printer!